🔗 Share this article

When assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” states a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.